20 Replies to “7 Common LED Strip FAILS and How To Avoid Them”

  1. Just watched your video and it was helpful. I have a question, I have a plexiglass poster and I want to mount it on my wall without using a frame and also use led strips behind it. Do you have any ideas how I can mount it on the wall and disperse the heat from the led strips?

  2. yikes … my first shot at using LED strip lights. going for indirect lighting in a classroom. 3 each 50 foot runs. So for simplicity i purchased 150 feet Shine 110 volt. Watching your video i see NOT RECOMMENDED. Why am i watching your video. Well I carefully rolled out 50 feet. Cut as directed and plugged them in before install to evaluate the light. The initial amount of light was really great. Then the whole strip went dim. before playing any more i thought i’d watch a few you tubes. 1) What do you think happened with my strip lights (so i can understand). 2) Recommendations for next step.

  3. I’m here crying in D1 mini and WLED 😂

  4. Nobody says:

    That “white” looks yellow where as the RGB version looks blue. I don’t know what crack you’re smoking

  5. Marc XX says:

    Great video … working through my kitchen remodeling i “figured out” the 7 mistakes trying to navigate the selection — wished i’d found your video first — would have saved me lotsa hours — to avoid point lights its suggested to use at a minimum 144 led/m … i’ve found 270led/m.

    So i’m going to have a 5 layer or rows of the LEDs — my one remaining challenge ATM is that the RGBCCT 270LED/m doesn’t have 6 pin 15mm connectors … aargghh so i might have to learn to solder microscopically …
    Layer 1 – toe kick pointed to the floor full length
    Layer 2 : under the counter around the quartz full length
    Layer 3 – under the counter around the quartz segmented at each drawer bank (15 of them w/ 3 drawers) white only and activated by a reed switch for each drawer (i know .. this one’s a little nutty) BUT it is 12mm so plenty of connectors
    Layer 4 – under the upper cabinets in recessed aluminum track because they are frameless cabinets
    Layer 5 – above the upper cabinets to illuminate towards the ceiling (of course) — possible mounted on an aluminum square tube to be able to move it around and change the effect

    yes i know i’m looking at about 1,500 w 24v PSU and have a dedicated circuit for it .. lol

    and if y’all are thinking Griswold Alert … you may be right

    question : have anyone found a 15mm 6 pin connector sets for these suckers? (reading the comments i appreciate that they’re not worth it)

    in the alternative what soldering iron is best suited for this ? soldering is not my strong suite to begin with ugh

    Thanks for reading the novel

  6. I have kinda everything LED, smart switches etc. in my House. Many different brands and apps. My best suggestion is to just use a Google Nest and controll via voice. If i´d had to use the remotes or even your sugestes solution, i´d probably hate it 😀 .

  7. Great video, thanks for the advice!

  8. Guitargreat says:

    Thanks learned a lot here

  9. AbsenteeAtom says:

    Eliminating the hotspot on the back of the TV, you created a cold spot by using the non-solder connector.

  10. “they don’t need to be RGB”

    BRO WYM?! D:

  11. “ugly LED strips”

    *Chokes*

  12. K M says:

    I had that one plastic controller and somehow I managed to re-programm it and now only few buttons turn on the correct colour.. x.x

  13. but why u dont recommend 120V or respectively 240V strips?

  14. Aj._ says:

    I just put up my LEDS and I love it and the first thing is “exposed LED lights” and mine are like that 😭 ✋

  15. GeekRedux says:

    The section titling change bugs me. “Failure n: [failure]…Failure n: [thing you should do]”, with “Failure 6: Individually addressed RGBs are cool”…? Yes, they are? Is that a failure?

  16. Kompakuta says:

    Great video, thank you

  17. Kent Ajos says:

    Thanks for the info👍new subscriber here🇵🇭

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